This is an adventure of a lifetime that has been booked for over 18 months after a couple of set backs that may have prevented me from going I eventually have fullfilled my dream, thanks to everyone for putting up with my excitement along the way and especially Andrew my husband. Nothing but nothing stops Dawn from making the most of life and I’m sure this will not be my last adventure.
Friday 29th May 2015
Spent my whole day off packing it’s a logistical nightmare trying to get everything in but I did it yay two soft cases & my camera trolley.
Saturday 30th May 2015
On the count down to my once in a lifetime polar experience and it looks like it’s going to be the hottest day of the year when I leave the UK!! So much for wearing my skiing jacket to save on packing space 😝
How cool is this app ‘Marine traffic’ you can track the MS Quest on its way, this is the trip I’m joining in exactly one week – soooo excited and the fantastic app that Natural World Safari use Vamoos to keep all your travel documents on.
Predicted weather in Longyearbyen for my Polar Adventure looking favourable.
Sunday 7th June
Weather – sunny and warm UK 19’c – Oslo 12’c – Longyearbyen 2’c
Left home at 10am and only took 1-1/2hrs – I was through security by 11.30am and I love the SAS plus as it was straight into the Lufthansa Lounge for free food and drink! Two meals, peppermint tea and a Prosseco – fantastic. I popped out to get a bottle of water & bought some chocolate for Hanne Larson my cabin buddy. At gate A18 boarded at 15.15 and took off late at 16.05!! I was in seat 4D and luckily not a full flight so had the whole row to myself. I could only have a snack on board as I’d not booked a Gluten Free option however the cabin staff suggested I asked the very kind SAS lady once at Oslo to book my return flights Gluten Free meal.
Landed at Oslo at 18.50 and we all got on a bus to terminal through security & passport control then found gate 59 for the flight to Longyearbyen should have left at 21.00 but took off 20 minutes late at 21.20. Seat 1D with the middle seat free this time.
Landed at 00.20 local time and I found my cabin buddy Danish Hanne Larsen talking with Axel one of our expedition leaders who made sure we were all on the right bus to take us to the Radison Blu hotel where Norweigen tradition says everyone has to take off there shoes at the entrance so we all did. Luckily I had a bright blue cabinar that I used to attach to my boots to make sure I recognised them!
Land of the midnight sun and it was weird seeing everyone in the hotel bar with the windows blacked out but full sun outside (and a couple were very drunk too lol) off to bed at 1am as another long exciting day starts early in the morning.
My room and the view at 1am in the morning!
Monday 8th June
Weather – Sunny/cloud 3’c- 5’c
Up at 7am bath the last one for a week and breakfast.
Breakfast room with a view of Longyearbyen
We had the morning free to investigate Longyearbyen so I wondered along the High Street as most shops didn’t open until 10am I was a little early. I found the tourist information and purchased 5 Polar Bear postcards for everyone back home and to my surprise the stamps also had a polar bears on too.
I found another great little shop that sold neck buffs with Polar Bears on as in fact everything in the town appeared to have my favourite white bear on. I returned to the hotel and one of the others on the trip suggested I popped into the WildPhoto Gallery and I was pleased I did, the photos of Svalbard were fantastic however the book they were selling was too heavy to purchase so I decided to buy the half price 2015 calendar with several beautiful photos. I intend to buy the book on my return home when I can get it delivered.
Instead of car parks in Longyearbyen the 2000 strong community also have a skidoo each!!
We all were told to meet at the hotel at 12 noon for the mandatory safety talk, I’d sat with Hanne in reception talking to a guy from Nottingham who was on his laptop watching the nearby coalface here in Svalbard not far from Longyearbyen being mined by the latest machinery and 4 million tonne a year is shipped to the UK.
Apparently as the projector didn’t work in the room we were waiting outside the Polar Quest team had moved venue however they had not seen us sitting in the reception area, they eventually realised we were missing and they came to find us.
The talk from Ronald the expedition leader was very informative on how to use the zodiacs and also the way to behave in the Arctic, once the talk had finished we had lunch in the hotel and then at 2.30pm we all made our way to the Svalbard Museum that described the history of the area in great detail, one of our guides Rickard talked us through the museum which bought it to life, a much better experience however the reality of human kind on the natural world was all too apparent.
The longyearbyen Museum resident Polar Bear.
From the museum all 50 explorers got onto the coach at 4pm and we arrived at the quay to find the MS Quest ready and waiting for us. We set sail around 5pm and we said goodbye to Longyearbyen for the next week.
Once we had found our cabin 318 and checked our luggage was there we went to the meeting area on level 4 for a safety talk and introduction to all of the expedition leaders. They translated into dutch and Swedish and English. We were then told to return to our cabins to find out which lifeboat was applicable to our room – ours was lifeboat number two.
Along with Hanne I also made friends with Ann Skeet from Felixstowe and she was in the cabin opposite ours 329. There was a test on the fire alarm and we all went to find our boat so we could practice putting on our life jacket. Once we finished we were ready for our first evening dinner and after my initial concern if my Gluten Free diet was being catered for I really did not need to worry as I could eat most things on the menu even the pasta dishes. Gluten Free bread was cooked fresh daily too.
The food really tasted as good as it looked, we also had a great view at dinner time what a great sight of the beautiful landscape through the resturants portholes. For the first night Ann and I ordered a bottle of presseco to share however if we’d have known that we had another trip off the boat that evening we may have changed our minds – we docked at a Russian mining village called Barentsburg and was given a tour by a young Russian lady Natalia that spoke just like the Russian ladies in the 007 films. She was also the lady who ran the local postoffice.
We popped into the post office and I sent another postcard home to say we’d visited at little piece of Russia in the Svalbard and Ann tried to dress like a Russian! we also had a treat as we saw our first Arctic Fox in the hills above the postoffice whilst Natalia was giving her talk on the settlement.
We got back to the ship by 10.45pm and yes still daylight! After a cuppa and a photo download in the meeting lounge we all retired to bed. Unfortunately I got locked out of my room as key decided not to work and I had to wake poor Hanne up. The ship sailed all night and was quite rough for the first part of the night and of course don’t forget still day light and even the blackout blind it didn’t keep out the light along the bottom edge!!
Tuesday 9th June
Weather – mostly cloudy with the odd ray of sun.
Wake up call at 7.30am and Breakfast at 8pm
Awake at 5.30am decided to have a shower at 6.30 and whilst in the shower the tannoy announcement came over and there was our first polar bear call – I’ve never got ready so fast in all my life, both Hanne and I were like a whirlwind and made it in 10 mins, we got to the front of the boat to see our FIRST polar bear AND we were lucky to see bulugar whales blowing on the ice edge. Managed to get a few photos however quite small as he was searching for seals quite a way off. Once we lost sight of him we all returned for a well deserved breakfast at 8am.
Everyday the whiteboard was updated with the days activities, sometimes just the morning was put up as weather was a great decider on where we could go, each day the map in the observation lounge was also updated with the route we had taken.
We then learnt we were going out on the zodiacs for the first time to discover Van Keulenfjorden and although I was a little nervous at first it was really great fun. It took quite a while each time we ventured out, we had to make sure we had several layers on to keep warm and my lifejacket was securely fastened.
I took both cameras however really only needed my ‘polar bear’ lens 150mm-600mm we were now on a polar bear hunt however we were not so lucky this time however we spotted a Walrus that was unusually feeding in a ring-tailed seal apparently its rare to see them eat meet as they normally only feed on crustaceans. Then after a little scouting we build the zodiacs up onto the fast ice and were invited to get out and walk on the ice I was a bit apprehensive of this at first however I’m sure we were safe on 70cm thick ice.
All guides continuously tell you about what you can see and also carried rifles with them too as they reminded us many times that the bears could be anywhere at anytime. After we had a bit of a walk about on the ice and the obligatory team shot and just before we embarked on the zodiacs and we were lucky to have an inquisitive bearded seal entertain us.
We were out about 2 & 1/2 hours when we returned it was almost lunchtime.
After lunch we are due to get out into the next fjord to find more bears in Recherché Fjorden. We all then boarded the five zodiacs the first two were Swedish speaking then English and the last two dutch. We made our way to a beautiful turquoise glacier it was so peaceful we saw may different birds and then we spotted a Svalbard Reindeer all alone on the ice so we then landed the zodiacs just in front of him to get some great shots,
I also took the time to get some landscapes scenes with brilliant reflections, everything looks very monotone so when there is colour in the landscape it really stands out.
After a while we all boarded the zodiacs again and moved round the coast to spot another seven Svalbard reindeer and many other birds before we again landed to visit an 1918 trappers shack, it was very sad to hear that between the English and the Dutch an entire species of whale was wiped out from the area – the northern right whale.
After being out on the zodiacs all afternoon (2-6pm) we headed back to MS Quest for Captain Alexi’s reception at 7pm and then dinner followed in the restaurant.
Russian Captain Alexi
Sample MV Quest menu
We raised anchor almost immediately the zodiacs were all hoisted back on board and once out of the fjord the sea swell became very rough so there was a lot of staggering going on. Both Ann and I had tea in the lounge before retiring at 9pm – we had a fantastic day however we were all very very tired. I just had time to write down my days adventures and download my photos before falling asleep. The ship would be heading north all through the night to move around the northern most point we would travel this week and we crossed the 80′ latitude twice, it was extremely rough so rough I had to eat some gluten free ginger biscuits during the night!!
Weather – Sunny and 4’ to start the day – moved up to Northern Svalbard and a bit colder and some snow.
We got up around 6.30am and both showered before breakfast and found out we were going to go on the Zodiacs to see walrus, just a little bit of a concern as very choppy but we made it with help from one of the leaders and staff from the ship. The beach we landed on was full of very large boulders and then very thick snow that we walked on to the bay where about 12 rather large Walrus were sleeping looking up at occasionally to see if we were a threat.
With 4cm of skin and 11cm of blubber to keep them warm, they were making the most of laying on the beach sunning themselves. I could have sat there all day they we were just fantastic to watch, we even had a couple of young Walrus get into the water and start playing.
There was also a fantastic glacier with the bright turquoise colours running through the great stack of ice. We stayed there for about 2 hours before all reloading onto the Zodiacs.
Lunch was at 12.30pm and was very tasty and filling however we needed it with all the cold weather the staff have also got my Gluten free menu down to a T so very confident they know exactly what I can eat. The MS Quest had now started moving to out next stop nearly two hours away ready for our next adventure Smeerenburg
& Virgohamna. We are due out on the zodiacs at 2.45pm where we are to be split up into two groups as there is a limit to numbers allowed to land at once. We were told to dress up warm as its a lot colder and very overcast.
We all boarded the zodiacs and made our way to Smeerenburg first, an extremely desolate place that once had 200 Dutch whalers inhabiting the area with 6 blubber ovens to extract the oil and blubber from the 1,000’s of whales they killed. By now it was snowing quite heavy and very windy.
Axel one of the guides explained the history of the place whilst I noticed a large colony of Arctic Terns and two barnacle geese. Back on the zodiacs to Virgohamna the site where many failed balloon attempts to reach the North Pole started and finished. There was many remnants however the several graves reminded you of how many lost their lives trying such a mad flight.
were the first to use Virgohamna as a whaling
base as early as 1633 (perhaps earlier).
The Dutch overwinterers in 1633-34 referred to it as “Houcker Bay”. In 1636, with no room being available along the beach at Smeerenburg
, the newly added Friesland
chamber of the Noordsche Compagnie
established what was later called the Harlingen kokerij
(“Cookery of Harlingen”). By 1662 the ships from Harlingen
had found little use for the station, with the merchants of the original charter offering other Dutch whalers its use for a certain fee.
surgeon Friderich Martens
visited the (by then) abandoned station in 1671, where he found four buildings still standing, “whereof two were warehouses, in the others they dwelt”. There he found tools and barrels frozen up in the ice.Archaeological
excavations have found the remains of five buildings and two double-ovens belonging to the station. Another station was found on Æøya
(named after the common eiders
that reside there), a small island on the eastern side of the bay. It was here, in 1896, that S.A. Andrée built his balloon house. Adverse winds forcing Andrée to return home on his first attempt to reach the North Pole
by balloon, he returned to Virgohamna in the summer of 1897. He left the bay early in July in what would be a fatal attempt to reach the pole
. In 1906, AmericanWalter Wellman
built an airship hangar
and base camp in the bay. The hangar wasn’t completed until August, forcing Wellman to return the following summer, where he again failed in his goal to the North Pole by airship. Wellman returned to Virgohamna once more in 1909; he again failed to reach the pole.
On the way back we were then taken on a slight detour to see a colony of very inquisitve harbour seals.
Back to the MS Quest for a 7pm dinner, both Hanne and I sat with Rickard and Andreas and there was a hint we may be moving to Marstandbukta to find a polar bear and sure enough Ronald came over the bing bong tanoy to announce there was a mother and cub to the left of the boat – so we scrambled ASAP grabbed my camera and warm clothes and ran to the side of the boat and sure enough there she was, it was so exciting and trying to steady the camera and focus I could feel my heart pounding!!
Another announcement went out that the zodiacs were going out as the MS Quest may be frightening the mother away. We had 20 minutes to get dressed ready for the zodiacs and we were off, however she had reached such a height that it was difficult to see her so we moved down the fjord and had yet another treat a young walrus and adult perched on a rock in front of a beautiful glacier.
We returned to the boat at 10pm at great speed as we had Rickard driving our zodiac!! After downloading my photo’s and writing my blog I retired to bed at midnight – midnight sun!! The boat will be travelling through the night whilst we sleep as our next destination Alkefjella is 11 hours away.
Thursday 11th June
Weather – colder than previous days approx. 0’degrees
pm – High Winds, snow and low visibility
Breakfast was at 8am as usual and then we were off to find a guillemot cliff at Alkefjellet Odinjokilen in the Hinlopenstretet and as the MV Quest is a icebreaker and cut through 70 cm of thick ice, she could get very near to the cliff as it easily made a path through the ice.
We saw Arctic Skua’s eating a dead guillemot.
Lunch was at 12.30pm and I started to feel a bit under the weather sore throat and temperature lets hope it goes away quickly.
We spent all afternoon hunting for Polar Bear on the pack ice however the weather was very rough and it started to snow and we did not find any however the captain did a great job of missing all the icebergs.
Due to the weather it was considered unsafe to go out on the zodiacs, so one of the guides Axel gave a great talk on the attempts of Andrée and how he tried to balloon to the North Pole from Danishland Virgohamna where we had visited the previous day.
Then we had another very informative talk from another guide Andreas on the ‘ocean bear’
Here are my notes:-
Ocean Bear or Ice Bear Isobjorn=Swedish
All tagged bears are female due to the very large long neck on the male the tag would not stay put.
Eyes and ears on the top of the head so the bear can swim low in the water
Weigh 150-500 (male) kilos
Ursus Maritimus = sea or ocean bear
Bearded seals 350kilos = fav food
4-5% die of starvation
only 50% cubs live past 2 years old
1 seal each per week to survive
cubs born new years eve (like the one we saw = 6 months)
one polar bear killed in Longyearbyen city in 1995 after killing one and injuring another human.
Due to climate change the polar bear and the brown bear have been known to mate and this will see the evolution and survival of the polar bear.
Polar Bears live between 20-25 years in the wild
Only 25,000 bear left in the world
2-3,000 live in and around Svalbard
5 countries have Polar Bears Canada, Greenland (Denmark) Russia, Alaska and Norway
One polar bear skin for sale on Longyearbyen for €8,000 very controversial
1 or 2 shot per year for protection only
BOOK RECOMMENDATION Polar Bears on the Edge – Morten Jorgensen
There was promise of a trip out on the zodiacs however due to the 50knots wind it was decided too unsafe and unfortunately I had now a very sore throat and high temperature so slept when I could – the ship was now moving to find a sheltered Fjord as the sea was extremely rough so dinner was always going to be interesting, most folk stayed in their cabins although I did try a little soup and vegetable curry but retired to my room to rest. I soon heard a knock on my cabin door and a member of staff was obviously making sure everyone had something to eat and was offering crackers and fruit which I gratefully accepted. I slept all night making sure I had lemsips to keep the fever away.
Weather – Snow overcast 4’c
I awoke at 2.30am to hear everything banging and crashing due to the high seas however I did manage to get back to sleep and when I awoke at 6.30am we had anchored and all was calm. Wake up call as normal at 7.30am and breakfast at 8am. Due to the poor weather conditions the guides were out on the zodiacs scouting for a safe landing place and we were told that there was a couple of options, snow walking and bird watching however I think the trip in the zodiac in such poor weather put quite a few of us off. So we stayed behind and watched the spy cam polar bear TV programme whilst some braved the snow and wind on their respective trips. It was lovely to talk in the lounge with some of the Swedish group who managed a little English and of course Steven the bird man with his great stories of travel and sailing.
As soon as everyone had returned from their trips MV Quest was again on her way to find some fast ice for us to scout for animal life, again the MV Quest manoeuvred into the ice so we could look for wildlife – in the distance we saw seals and an arctic fox but no polar bears.
After an hour we moved back out of the ice and back along the Fjord to the Texas Bar a 1932 trappers hut where we were all Zodiac’d across to the beach and we walked up across the snow to the hut.
The guides raided the ships bar brought with them whiskey rum and Jaggermiesters so we could have it neat or with hot chocolate – I had Captain Morgans rum and hot chocolate it was a great idea. Rickard told us one of his stories about polar bears and the trapper that stayed in the small hut for 32 winters. The little hut was fully kitted out with magazines to read a bed a log stove and a large pile of logs.
Then someone saw an Arctic Fox he run right at us across the snow, he was beautiful half black and half white, he started playing in the snow before running off over the hill. Due to the weather conditions and the steep walk up to the hut I did not take my camera so missed the chance to photo the fox however very happy with the great experience.
The wind had really picked up and was whipping the loose snow up into the air – it felt like being in a blizzard. It was very deep snow and was challenging for me to climb further up the hill and then back down however I made it and we then all piled back into the zodiacs and returned to the MV Quest all a lot wetter. Dinner was at 7pm and the ship was again on the move we were warned that due to the high winds it would be another rough trip back overnight round the North West corner of Svalbard.
After dinner I had tea and chocolate and retired to bed around 9pm.
Weather – much better sunny and part cloud 4degrees
The ship was still sailing however we were due to arrive at our destination at 9am.
We had our Bing Bong breakfast wake up call from Ronald as usual and then breakfast at 8am, then we all met in the observation lounge at 9am to get our briefing before our visit to Ny Alesund at around 9.15am
The one shop in the settlement of mainly researchers was only open for half an hour at 9.30am however it had some great gifts and I managed to find a couple of great things for Andrew and Mum. We left our purchases hanging outside the shop quite safe for our return then we split up into our respective language guides and Rickard was todays english speaking guide.
He told us all about the failed zeppelin trips to the North Pole and that the small settlement was a research station for 15 countries around the world.
We walked across the tundra area to the zeppelin tower that still had plenty of snow however you could hear the constant sound of the running melt water. At the end of Rickards guided tour of Ny Alesund we walked through some Arctic Terns territory and they started to dive bomb us, the best thing to do was hold your hand above your head to prevent attack!! We walked back into town passed some feisty little Arctic Terns that started to dive bomb us all as we were obviously near there nests. Then Rickard showed us the dog pound where all the dogs that pulled the sleds in the winter were housed.
It was then time to return to the boat when a shout went up that there was a mother and cub Polar Bear on the very small Island adjacent to Ny Arlesund. As Ronald and Anietta had both worked in the settlement they warned the locals who said they were unaware of the bears and that it was the first encounter this year!!
Eventually we got back on the boat where lunch was being served and we were told that the boat would try to relocate nearer the bears for a better view, I was not going to miss the Polar Bear sighting from the ship.
After lunch we had a second view of the bears and after about an hour we started to move off to see the glacier at the end of the fjord at Ossean sars.
We were going out on the zodiacs and we could choose between a beach walk, a medium hill walk or a long hike I chose the medium hill walk but soon realised after getting 1/4 the way up it was far too steep for me so Axel was very kind and returned 4 of us back to the beach so we could continue with Rickard.
We walked to one end of the beach spotting Polar Bear footprints in the snow just behind the beach. We then sat in the sun on the rocks when Rickard produced a bar of chocolate whilst telling one of his stories. He then offered us a zodiac excursion along the coastline and out to a beautiful turquoise iceberg, from the zodiac we saw Svalbard reindeer and more Arctic Terns. We returned to the boat at 5.30pm and I managed to download the last couple of days photos.
There was music coming from the back of the boat and a distinct BBQ smell and yes tonights dinner was a special BBQ on deck in front of one of the most spectacular glaciers we’d seen so far.
We were told that fancy dress was optional and I had my Polar Bear attire to the ready, however not so sure about the Scottish Swede?
We ate, drank dressed silly and danced until we spotted a beautiful sky and that we were moving away from the glacier to our next port of call. Bed at 11.30pm whilst the boat was still sailing.
Beautiful end to the day.
Weather – 3/4’degrees cloudy/sunny
We were now back very near Longyearbyen as my phone received a couple of text messages as we sailed past, up till now we’ve had no signal since Monday morning. With the boat now moored, we were up for breakfast at 8am after our usual 7.30am wake up call.
9.15am dressed ready for a zodiac trip to Trygghamm a glacier where we saw at last the king Eider duck and a harbour seal playing nearby, once we found a suitable landing spot we had a small hike nearer the glacier with some of the guys using the slope to toboggan down including Charles and Emily (Salt Lake City USA) 91 and 87 respectively!!
After we returned from the mornings zodiac trip we watched 8 of the guests do a polar plunge along with Annette – all quite mad!! Michael the english man had been locked out of his room and he desperately wanted to do the plunge at 78 I think it was mad however he did it and got his certificate along with the rest – 2’degrees water temp approx.
Lunch was at 12.30pm and then we were on the move again to search for puffins and after a slight delay the MV Quest found the place and we went out for the last time on the zodiacs, quite amazing that I’d never been on one a week prior. We all set off and it was quite windy however it was not long before we spotted our first puffin bobbing in the water ahead of us, we also saw some more guillemots on the steep cliffs on the side of the fjord at Skansbukta.
We then landed at a disused Gypsum mine that had not seen action for a few years and this was the first time all week that we were able to roam along the beach without sticking to the guides like glue, as Polar bears were quite rare in our current location each guide stood at each end of the beach just incase as ‘Polar Bears can be everywhere at any time’ a few words that we have been reminded of all week and one day will save someones life.
I think I would find number 3 hard to stick to!!
I took several more photos with my 150mm-600mm lens but was treated to a couple of Svalbard Reindeer running past me.
We wondered around admiring the castle like features of the cliffs saying our goodbyes to Svalbard ‘the Polar Dessert’ watching the many reindeer way up high on the shale.
After about a couple of hours we all got back into the Zodiacs and as some folk had already returned to the boat I was lucky enough to have Rickard take me back with only two others and he loves to push the zodiacs to their limits and go as fast as he can, making the last trip great fun. Once back we had a short time to pack a little before meeting in the observation lounge for our last debrief of the days events from Ronald and a couple of practicalities along with a glass of champagne.
Dinner was at 7.30pm and then we were due a slideshow of the weeks photos the guides had taken, however a few apple i.t problems so they said they will send us the video ‘before christmas’ along with a log book of our weeks travels of 900km. All guides along with the ships Russian captain Alexi thanked us for travelling with them and we all had chance to thank our guides individually, at this point I got quite emotional as I really couldn’t believe I was here in the Arctic and a year ago this week I may not have thought it possible!! We then returned to our room 318 to pack, I really can’t believe I got everything all back my bags, however I did and we were told to leave our cases outside our room before midnight as they would be loaded on the bus in the morning. Now for some sleep before our last wake up call at 3am ready for our journey back home. We arrived and moored at Longyearbyen at 11pm where the MV Quest was making the most horrendous noises, from reversing the engines to putting down anchor and we only have 4 hours sleep!! Hanne has her ear plugs in as she needs her sleep and I’ve just text Andrew and got a reply I can’t wait to tell him all about my adventures I also can’t quite believe I’ve managed to survive without wi-fi for a week!!
The flights on the way home were a breeze and the only hiccup I had was my brightly coloured trolley duffle bag had been ripped open which I discovered when I was reunited with it again at Heathrow terminal 2, I’d already rang Dave Harris
, my taxi home to say I’d landed however I had to wait to fill the in the forms to get a new case. I was told that I needed to claim for any loses from the bag from SAS airlines and as I did not know what was missing I left that for another day. Dave had the ‘Jeakings’ sign up on his iPad and helped me with my bags to his car. We chatted most of the way home however all I wanted to do was sleep as it was now 3.30pm, we got home at 5pm. I was so pleased to see Andrew.
Wow what a week its been too on Dawn’s Polar Adventures I’ve met some really great people that I hopefully will stay in touch with. I’ve learnt a lot about myself and been totally inspired by Emily and Charles from the USA who made me realise you’re really never too old to do anything.
Thanks to everyone at Polar Quest and Tom at Natural World Safari for a true adventure.
Now I just need to save up for the Antarctic!
This is my first ever blog so a few hiccups!!